Mate, banana pancakes, and swing dance: one month in uruguay

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This post was written between May 1st and May 3rd.

(This blog, this post, and all related accounts are not an official Department of State publication, and that the views and information presented are the Grantee’s and do not represent the Fulbright Program, ECA, the Post, Fulbright Commission, or the host country’s government or institutions.)

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It is May 1st: Labor Day. The streets are tranquil. No cars honk at streetlights. No buses screech to a halt at their stops. The only sound is the wind whooshing through the falling golden leaves. The whole city stops for a day of rest and asado. Today marks one month since my arrival in Uruguay. 

And I sure packed these thirty days full with pastry and coffee purchases, picnics, bus rides, friend dinners, overlapping conversation, hugs, kisses on the cheeks from strangers, and memories of dancing to Shakira or swing music at midnight. I scrambled to build routine but basked in the spontaneous nature of Uruguayan scheduling. 

Over four weeks, I planted and nurtured connections to Uruguayan culture. I tried mate and vigorously took notes as my mentor coached me in the delicate steps of Uruguayan preparation. (First, pour the yerba, or herbs in the mate gourd. There are several kinds of yerba, from the original and bitter porongo mate to the acero inoxidable, which is less bitter. Then, place your hand on top of the gourd, covering the yerba, and tip it over. Turn it back over, then shake the yerba off to one side. Then, place the bombilla, or metal straw, on top of the yerba. Prepare hot water to place in the thermos. Pour cold water into the pocket created by the yerba; wait a few minutes. Then, pour hot water into the pocket in increments, allowing the yerba to soak up the water and pool at the top of the gourd. Then, enjoy your mate in Uruguayan style: on the go!). Afterwards, I carried pink my matera, a mate carrier, home on my arm on a bus full of other Uruguayans hugging their gourds and thermoses close to their chests. 

At home, in my Airbnb, I grew closer to my host and roommate. The smell of banana pancakes greeted me every morning during my first week, filling the second-floor apartment with aromas of cinnamon, oats, and vanilla. I asked my host to share her recipe, and a few days later, I began to prepare my own pancakes. It is a staple—a comfort food to bond over. (My host shared her chickpea flour with me to try in my pancakes). Banana pancakes served as a gentle invitation to connect with my roommates. Slowly, I am getting to know their stories. 

Food is often the catalyst for our late-night conversations. Tubs of dulce de leche and frutilla de crema ice cream prompted a viewing of Pretty Woman, one of my favorite chick-flick movies. Beating homemade pizza dough with my roommate led to a Cumbia Cheta Uruguaya listening party in the kitchen. My host and I took turns reaching into a Tupperware container of crackers (a Uruguayan house staple) on the living room table, intensely discussing Uruguayan politics on a Monday night. 

Outside of the house, I started attending swing dance classes. Every Monday night at 7:30, I twirl and sway to American jazz music in strangers’ arms in a second-floor studio in Ciudad Vieja. Swing is the perfect balance between comfort and discomfort. The music and movements are familiar from the swing dance club I attended my freshman year of college, but the people and the instructions are foreign. Dance is one of the most intimate ways to get to know people. Even though my dance partners and I rarely talk, I recognize their individuality through their body language. After four sessions of studying the “rock step” and “send out,” (the terminology is not translated to Spanish), the other dancers evolved from strangers to people with stories—people I choose to lead me across the dimly lit dance floor.

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In this post, I share highlights, updates, discoveries, and photos from the past few weeks of finding my community and routine in Montevideo. Please enjoy!
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HIghlights and updates

I had a “pinch me!” moment in my fourth week living abroad. A representative from the Dirección de Políticas Lingüísticas invited me to a presentation regarding the progress of “#WorkingUruguay” textbooks: a revolutionary curriculum series in Uruguay. The series is funded and directed by ANEP (Administración Nacional de Educación Pública). Their mission is to distribute English primary, secondary, and vocational educational textbooks to teachers and students across Uruguay. 

An ANEP press article covering the presentation described the monumental nature of the series: “#WorkingUruguay represents an unprecedented milestone in Uruguayan education. For the first time, students of DGETP will have access to didactic materials designed specifically to satisfy their needs, adapted to their local culture context, culture, and backgrounds. The books in this series are the result of an exhaustive process of development and investigation.”

During the presentation, four representatives and leaders from ANEP explained their hope to create more diverse learning experiences with English speakers of different backgrounds. #WorkingUruguay is a platform for holistic learning: centered on the student, interdisciplinary work, accessibility to multimodal and diverse contexts, variety of assignments, real-life situations, and intrinsic motivation. The books not only revolutionize what English teachers teach, but how they teach and guide students’ developing knowledge of English.

I am privileged to share space with the curriculum developers and witness the progress they made with this momentous book series. Furthermore, I feel deep gratitude for Directive’s invitation to collaborate on the developing book series. Over the past two weeks, I edited and proofread content in “Hardware” and “Software” textbook units. This movement serves as a model for federal action with students’ needs and interests in mind. Combining my passions for writing, education, and systematic transformation is a dream come true.

bustling Social weekends

I designate weekends for sleeping in, eating a slow breakfast of banana pancakes, long periods of stillness and shared time with my compañeros, casual magic, exploring new restaurants, and nurturing new relationships. Last Friday, I made homemade pizza with my gorgeous roommate, Liz. She used her grandma’s recipe for dough. We danced in the kitchen sipping wine while we chopped up tomatoes, green pepper, and onion for the sauce. When the pizza was ready, we assembled our plates with steaming pizza oozing with fresh mozzarella cheese and moved to the living room. Then, Liz introduced me to Sex and the City, and we giggled with our mouths full at Carrie Bradshaw’s ridiculous sensual adventures in New York with her three best girlfriends.

The next night, I met up with new friends from my swing dance class at a restaurant hub called Mercado Ferrando. Set in a refurbished old furniture store, Mercado Ferrando hosts a myriad of restaurants, from tacos to poke bowls to churros. My compañera and friend Ryan and I shopped around the different shops, allowing the aromas to guide us. We settled on sharing a serving of fainá—a chickpea flatbread that is placed on top of pizza—and a vegan toasted sandwich with roasted potatoes. Our stomachs and souls felt warm and satisfied by the food and company. Ryan is a grounding presence in my busy life; her contagious grin that makes her eyes close every time and bouncy red curls put my mind at ease. She teaches me to lead life through positivity and persistence—to soak up opportunities but also recognize when rest must be prioritized.

I always look forward to our weekly rendezvous on Monday nights. We never run out of things to talk about. She is a confidant even though in reality, we are still strangers to each other. We sat at a tiny table in a coffee shop, sharing a plate of small cookies, our hands cupped around our warm beverages. During swing dance, we drift apart to dance with different partners. However, I feel safe knowing she is close.  

Trying new things feels more comfortable when I try them with friends. I know August, Sam, and Ryan are only a fifteen-minute bus ride away if I need company. I soak up every picnic, dinner party, and deep philosophical discussion on the new Taylor Swift album. When July begins, I will travel to the provinces alone. So, although I feel prepared to venture out on my own, I lean on my friends when they are near.

Food and restaurants I've tried

• Mushroom Bar

A vegan restaurant rich with mushroom decor and plates, Mushroom Bar offers flavorful small, shareable plates and an opportunity to spend hours laughing over saucy card games and cocktails. Around 90% of the dishes feature some kind of mushroom, including ramen, fainá, and vegan hamburgers. If you are looking to venture away from heavy chivitos and asados, consider sharing the light mushroom risotto croquettes! After you eat, select from their varied card game selection.
Rating: 10/10

• D’la Ribera Empanadas Pocitos

When I don’t feel like cooking, and I am “out of food” (aka nothing looks appetizing or I don’t want to eat the same thing I had for lunch), I take a brisk walk over to D’la Ribera Empanadas in Pocitos. This small shop provides the best deal for cheesy, fulfilling empanadas. On my first visit, I purchased two empanadas (libanesa and verdura) for a little over $3!
Rating: 9/10

• Barú coffee and St. Germain Boulangerie

    I did it! I found my go-to local bakery and café in Montevideo. St. Germain Boulangerie and Barú are two small businesses around my neighborhood in Pocitos. They both sell delectable pastries and sweet treat pick-me-ups. St. Germain caters to croissants, elegant eu clairs, and cheesecake. Barú specializes in alfajores, scones, acai bowls, cakes, and sweet breads. Every week, I buy a fresh loaf of bread from St. Germain; on Friday afternoons, I sit on the patio with some form of decaffeinated beverage at Barú.
Rating: both 8.5/10.

• Oro del Rhin

    If you want to embrace the royalty you are, dedicate a merienda (an early evening snack) to Oro del Rhin in Ciudad Vieja. Order “té para dos” that is fit for four to fill up on cakes, scones, ham and cheese sandwiches, and of course, tea. Half of your time will be spent longingly gazing at the case of towering cakes piled high with meringue and chocolate ganache.
Rating: 10/10.

• Cultura Aventura and Escaramuza

    Cultura Aventura and Escaramuza are two locations of the same company offering the perfect pairing of café and bookstore. Go for the setting, not necessarily for the food, which is more expensive. Cultura Aventura is situated next to a movie theater; Escaramuza is set on a gorgeous, plant-filled (key detail) outdoor patio. Tip: pack your hat, mittens, and scarves this May!
Rating: 9/10

• Plaza café

    Plaza is a co-working café in the Parque Rodó neighborhood that is open on Sundays. I highly recommend the shakshuka. Be warned about their lemonade—it comes unsweetened.
Rating: 7/10.

• Las Cabras café

    Plants, hot chocolate, friendly staff, more alfajores and cheesecake, quiches that are to die for. . .need I say more?
Rating: 9/10.

• La Otra Parrilla

The best and only parrilla I have been to in Montevideo. Vegetarians, the sauteéd vegetables and sweet potatoes are marvelous! Any asado is a catalyst for deep connection with new friends or old loved ones.
Rating: 10/10

• Araiyo

The best bibimbap I’ve ever had, but it was $24.
Rating: 7/10

finding time to rest and play

This was my picnic lunch on a solo afternoon excursion to Museo Juan Manuel Blanes, an art museum, and Parque Prado. Local empanadas, fresh carrot cake from a café by the museum, and leftover snacks from my apartment.

My body finally caught up with my mental fatigue. I am currently recovering from one of those fall beginning-of-the-school-year-but-it’s-May colds. Congestion, hot chamomile tea (manzanilla in Uruguay), cough drops, and Kleenex are my new closest companions. I finally gave in to my body’s demands for rest. I needed one day to sleep in until 12:00 and do absolutely nothing. Well, except for binging Brooklyn 99 on Uruguayan Netflix and streaming the new Anne Hathaway romcom. 

Before my cold arrived, I attempted to carve out time to rest and to just exist. Coming from a go-go society that associates burn-out and consistent productivity with “success,” I still hold guilt and FOMO around doing nothing. However, Uruguayans are magicians with nothing. Their free afternoons are spent on the beach, drinking mate, or sitting on a blanket in a park, drinking mate. Most Uruguayans are at peace with what they have; they sit in the quiet, casual magic of their capital city.
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Since I arrived in Montevideo, I took advantage of my part-time schedule to rest, recuperate, and then explore in the afternoons. On a day off from work, I spontaneously took the bus to Parque Prado and Museo de Juan Manuel Blanes. I spent the perfect date with myself, in silence, admiring the beauty on the art museum’s walls and the botanical garden’s criss-crossing paths. Once per week, I go to a local café (usually Barú) to just sit and read on my kindle. In these serene hours, I exist without expectation, judgment, or comparison. I can breathe deeply. I can live freely.

Recent reads, listens, and quotes

1. Everything I know about love by Dolly Alderton (recommended by my friend, Karlee)

2. The Mountain is You by Brianna Weist
“Fear is not going to protect you. Action is. Worrying is not going to protect you. Preparing is. Overthinking is not going to protect you. Understanding is.”

3. Taylor Swift’s Tortured Poets Department on repeat!
My favorite songs include:

• Clara Bow
• Down Bad
• But Daddy I Love Him
• So High School
• Who’s Afraid of Little Old Me?
• ​(I need to relisten to the whole second half)

4. Mindful Moments podcast with David Larbi
"Picture yourself in your life and hold the reality that you could die tomorrow. You could die next month. You don’t know how long you have in this life, but you have the opportunity to do one thing, find one thing, be one thing before you die. What do you desire?”

5. 21 Days of Abundance - Meditation series ​
"As I let go of the need to arrange my life, the universe brings abundant good to me."
“I use my conscious intention to manifest my dreams.” 

(I try to meditate every morning right after I wake up; this reminds me of what abundance surrounds me and what level of control I hold over the abundance in my life.)

6. A Meditative story episode with UnJaded Jade
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7. Se Regalan Dudas (recommended by Liz)
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Little moments of joy and big victories

“I place my intention in the vast ocean of all possibilities and allow the universe to work through me.” Deepak Chopra, Meditation Day 12 out of 21
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Sitting at the kitchen table for merienda around 5:30pm, with my yogurt bowl bubbling with almonds and raisins, I pull up YouTube to watch the newest UnJaded Jade video. Jade is a 24-year-old vlogger currently living in London and navigating post-graduate life. I was first drawn to her emotional vulnerability, candor, and intelligence. Like me, Jade has traveled the world for business and for pleasure—like me, she feels lost in her new city, her new home. 

Throughout her videos, Jade shares moments of “casual magic," a term she coined to describe superficially mundane life flashes that enchant her with their shimmering underlying beauty: rain on the shudders, rainbows reflecting off of glass prisms in her room, picnic lunches in a public park, her morning meditation. Casual magic balances out the dark, heavy weight of “What now?” and “I’m all alone.” These captivating instances shine a light on the abundance that surrounds me and her. So, for the last three weeks, I intentionally filled my days with casual magic and little moments of joy. I smiled at the rain-filling puddles next to freshly fallen gold leaves. My shoulders relaxed as I transitioned into a newly established routine. 

I apply Jade’s practices to find the guiding light in the unknown that lies ahead. I crafted routines that bring me joy and predictability throughout my day and week. I started my mornings with meditation, a sustainable breakfast, and at least ten minutes of reading. When I get home from school, I rest, giving my body time to reset after a morning of overstimulation. In the afternoons, I wrote or played outside; I invested in my creativity and regulating activities. Two to three times per week, at least, I played on La Rambla: running along the beach is so liberating. Every Monday around 6:00, I reunited with Ryan for merienda before our swing dance class. This is living: work, play, and the mundane. 

Unfortunately, my first week of teaching featured strained periods of disappointment. Attempts to enrich my days with community engagement or college courses fell through. Either I realized the opportunity would be placed on the back burner (e.g. college courses), or my calls were not answered (e.g. volunteering). I felt stuck. 

However, last Tuesday, I received an email that evoked tears of relief and delight. A fifth-grade teacher answered my call for engagement in a language exchange project. A bridge now connected our two countries, classrooms, and communities. A couple of weeks prior, I sent an open request to the principal of a Spanish immersion school I’d worked at as a substitute teacher. I pitched the project in the hopes of connecting a Minnesotan classroom with one in Montevideo, Uruguay through pen pal letters and videos. 

Now, the Minnesotan fifth-grade teacher and I are in constant communication. He already sent me the first round of letters! My lovely mentor, Naty, and I are moved by our students’ intrinsic motivation to expand their vocabulary and bridge their own connections to a student across the world. In time, students will exchange videos in both English and Spanish, so they hear native speakers in their other languages, build cross-cultural relationships, and practice their other language in meaningful contexts.

Yes, this is why I am here. I found my purpose again: to be a bridge between my home country and my current home, Uruguay. The light that illuminated my guiding path just got a little brighter.

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